Thursday, 3 March 2016

7. Budgie bonding and taming - The first flight!

So you have now got your budgie to happily step up on to your finger. What’s next?

DO NOT STOP TRAINING! Training a budgie is a continuous process that you need to work on every day, I'm still working with Reggie and I regularly go back to basic budgie flight recall to reinforce that he's doing a good job. In time it will not feel like you are training at all because you and your budgie will just be hanging out and having fun. But for the next few weeks you will be working on building his trust whilst training him to step up, fly to you or even spin in circles [see clicker training].

It is advised that you only let your bird out of the cage once you feel confident that he knows how to step up. I do agree with this, you will be more relaxed knowing that you can get your bird back to his cage safely, and the bird by that point should have learnt to trust you and your hand and so will also be more relaxed. With Reggie I felt he had started to go backwards in his cage and he was getting irritated and clearly itching to get out....so I let him out when I wasn't 100% confident he would get back on my finger. He was actually easier to train once outside his cage, he enjoyed being on his play gym and he could fly away when he wasn't interested.


Your birds first flight:


I would recommend that you let him out on his maiden flight in the room that he has been living in. Whilst you have been going about your daily business he has been watching you, and also assessing his surroundings. This is why it is beneficial to wait at least a couple of days before you let a new bird free as it can help to stop birds freaking out and falling down the side of a cupboard (as Buster demonstrated perfectly!).

Before I let Reggie out I closed all the curtains and I covered the large mirror over the fire place with a scarf. Reflective surfaces are like katnip to birds and this will help to prevent them from flying head first into them and possibly causing serious harm to themselves. It can be scary letting a bird out for the first time as they can go on a sort of mad panic around the room and crash into things, land up high, fall behind things, so it’s important to bird proof the room (but not to the extreme) and for you to be calm.

Reggie shot out of his cage, flew around a bit and then landed on my light 


When birds feel threatened they will go high – curtain rail, top of the door, on top of a fancy dress pizza box on top of a suitcase on top of a wardrobe - everything is an option, It's OK
! In the wild you would rarely see a budgie on the ground, they would be up in the tree’s looking down on the world feeling smug because no one can get to them. So don’t be surprised if you let your bird out and he shoots to the highest point and sits there for hours. Doing nothing. Not even singing. BORING! Haha. It’s ok, you will have fun trying to get him back to his cage.  

Reggie was a menace, he would perch on the curtain rail at the very end on the twisted metal ornament making sure he was sat at the very back where no amount of stretching could get to him, and if I did reach him I would be greeted with a bite. Such a sweet baby.
For the second flight you could let him out using the same precautions as before (scarf over the mirror, closed curtains) and then whilst he is out you could open the curtains. The initial bolt from the cage is when they would most likely see the window and think FREEDOM!! To this day we still have the scarf over the mirror, Reggie really enjoys flying in front of it looking at himself. It's annoying for us as I like that mirror, but its a small sacrifice to stop him going crazy. I have only seen either of them fly into the window a few times, it is not usual for them as they know their living room (notice I said their!) and they know the layout. 


My birds on top of the fridge, how do I get him back to his cage?
 
At the time I read lots of advice that said you should not grab your bird, and if you cannot get him on your finger or a perch you should throw a towel over him and scoop him up, or just wait for him to get hungry. This didn't sit well with me because I had also read that throwing a towel over them, or grabbing them could severely affect the bond you had started to get with your bird. Try getting him to step up and reward him as soon as he does, and on the way back to the cage. 

But what if he won’t get on your finger? 
Remember that perch you might have used for step up training? Now is the perfect time to get that out again. For Reggie I used a spare perch, it took a few trips half way to the cage and back to the curtain rail before we made it all the way back to his cage, but we got there! You might even find that with a little bit of very gently shooing, your bird will return to his cage on his own. Again, this is another example of what your bird has been learning whilst being locked up in the first few weeks. His cage has become his home and his safe place.
Perch and finger doesn't work? 
He hasn't gone back to his cage on his own? Hmmmm tricky. I was so worried about upsetting Reggie I tried to avoid doing anything that would annoy him. When I collected Reggie from the breeder he told me that in the first few days I should practice holding him and releasing him inside his cage. I ignored this advice but with Buster I followed this and I made sure that I held him, released him and rewarded him afterwards. Reggie does not enjoy being touched or held, my neighbour had to hold him so I could do his nails a few months ago, but Buster is a little more forgiving than Reggie and if I do grab him we are OK. Anyway, my point is, if you can confidently get a good safe hold on your bird in the first few months of your relationship, or even when you first let him out, don’t be afraid to do this as a last resort. I dread when I need to do Reggie’s nails again or if he ever has to go to the vet as he will be more panicky because he hasn't been held. 


I feel like I need to write this at the end of each post......I am not an expert! This is all information I have learnt and it might not always work out accurately for your birds. I have confidence in what I write but read with caution!

6. Budgie bonding and taming - Step Up


The most common question I get asked is - how did you get your birds so tame? 

I am incredibly lucky to have two fantastic birds (edit: 3 fantastic birds!) who are brave and happy. BUT I'm not going to give them all the credit - I worked really hard with them! It was not a chore, it was not even that difficult, but I still had to put a lot of effort into their taming and thankfully all my hard work has paid off. 




I did have a bit of a head start compared to lots of people (one of the benefits of getting from a breeder!) because Reggie and Buster were already hand tame and used to hands when I got them. My task was build on the good work the breeder had done and get them to trust me and my hands. To do this I flooded them with love, attention and lots of treats so that we became friends. Oscar was a different kettle of fish, he was 9 months old and aviary bred and reared. He had little to no contact with the breeder and so he was shy and wary of hands. I used the below steps with all 3 budgies. 

When I got them home I didn't let either Reggie or Buster settle in properly like I should have, (see: Budgie bonding and taming - The first few days) and I rushed to get them on my hands because I was excited. They both cooperated and that was great, but then I remembered I needed to let them chill out a little and so I tried to back off (hard when you have a new 'toy').

From then on I worked at a slightly slower pace. I went back to the beginning and followed the 'rules' for hand taming: 


  1. Cage location: Put your birds cage in a room where you live and spend most of your time so that they can become a part of the daily activity. For us this was our living room, on a table in the corner that looked over us when we watched TV and also somewhere that we walked past all the time.
  2. Talk to them: Tell them what you are doing when you change their water and seed. Tell them where you are going when you go out, or where you have been when you get home. Walk past them and look into their cage and tell them they are a beautiful clever bird and that you love them. Just chat to them about your life, and tell them with enthusiasm. This is where the mad bird lady/man starts to rear its head but that's good, be proud of your craziness!
  3. Don't do too much too soon: For the first few days only put your hand in their cage to change their water and seeds. Your bird might panic and flap about, but it needs to be done and they will see that you are doing something positive for them. Try to do this at the same time each day so there is some sort of schedule that they can predict and prepare for.
  4. Enter the cage: After a few days of just performing general car tasks and talking, place your hand just inside the cage door and leave it there for 5-10 minutes then slowly take your hand out. Repeat this pattern 3 times (10 minutes x 3) and try to do it at least 3 times throughout the day whilst talking in a soothing voice. He might panic, and if he does stay calm and wait for him to calm down whilst keeping your hand there. Obviously if he doesn't calm down within a minute or so take your hand out and back off. Take your time.
    Great titles for these two 'step's' aren't they? lol
  5. Enter the cage slightly more: Once your bird is happy with you placing your hand at the entrance to his cage, progress to placing your hand just inside the cage. This can be flat on the floor or if that's not comfortable, flopped over the entrance. THIS MIGHT BE A GOOD MOMENT TO WARN YOU THAT YOU WILL PROBABLY GET BRUISES UP YOUR ARM FROM RESTING IT ON THE SIDE OF THE CAGE - USE THESE AS A SIGN THAT YOU ARE DOING A GOOD JOB!!
  6. Touch the perch: Slowly move your resting hand closer to your bird by placing it at the end of the perch he is on. If he freaks out move your hand away to a distance where he is calmer and then try moving your hand back again after a few minutes. By moving your hand away when he shows distress, you are demonstrating to him that you respect his boundaries and that you are happy to give him space. However, you do need to make progress so you need to move your hand back again and repeat until he is comfortable. Don't worry if you have to back track up and a few steps, that's OK, you are not in a hurry.
  7. Offer some food: Make your hand a happy place. Offer some millet to your birdy, butter him up a bit and win him over. Using a long piece of millet is great because you can hold it at a distance and slowly move your hand along the stalk closer to the bird. This is an important step because you will want to offer a nice tasty reward for the next step.
  8. Stepping up: If he is happy to have your hand near him on the perch, and he will take food from you, then you can start the step up process. Hurray! It might have taken you a day to get here, it might have taken you well over a week. All birds are different with different backgrounds and personalities. Hopefully by now you are starting to learn about your birds characters and you can understand happy from sad etc.
    Following on from Step 6, when you move closer to him on the perch,
    extend your finger so that it looks like a perch. He might understand and hop up straight away, he might back off, he might just sit there thinking WTF? You can gently press your finger upwards against his lower belly and say the word 'up'. This should encourage him to step up on to your finger. This isn't meant to be forceful, you are not meant to push him so he is falling off the perch backwards, it is just a slight nudge to let him know a perch is there to get on. Remember, if he seems uncomfortable go back a step. If he is scared of your finger you can use a real perch and as he gets better at stepping up you can shorten the perch by moving your hand closer to the bird. You have to remember this can be a very slow process and it is all about trust. Don't forget to reward him when he is on your finger, offer a treat, tell him what a good baby boy he is! 



Please be patient but persistent. I will keep saying this, be patient! Don't expect miracles over night, I have many messages from people saying they have been working at it for months and can only just touch their bird. You could have a very brave confident bird who learns quickly, or you could have a shy nervous bird who needs a bit more love and time to come out of his shell. If you push too hard he might go backwards so look for the warning signs and back off for a bit.  

BUY THEIR LOVE WITH TREATS!
This is Doug doing some lunchtime training with Reggie
Bribery is a nasty word but for budgies it is the magic weapon to help your budgie associate your hand with a happy place. Millet comes on a very handy long stalk which you can hold at a distance while he is getting used to your hand being in his cage. As he gets more comfortable you can place the millet in the palm of your hand, or you can use it as encouragement to step up but making it so that he has to step up to reach the goods. A bit like leading a donkey with a carrot! 

Place your hand in his cage and wait. BE PATIENT! You might get uncomfortable, you might get cramp and bruised from sitting in an uncomfortable position. Tough, this is what you have to do. If your arm is constantly going in and out of his cage in the early stages he will get annoyed, but if you can sit still and provide a perch that looks safe and inviting then your bird will want to sit on it. Something I read was that birds might actually prefer sitting on our hands and fingers as they are soft and squishy compared to the perches. 

If you have more than one bird
Bird's are flock animals and it is sometimes a case of monkey see, monkey do. It definitely is with my boys which can be great for getting them to eat new foods or try out new toys. It can also hinder your training as they might ignore your requests and be more interested in their mate/mates. To combat this, you can separate your birds for training to avoid them being distracted by each other. If you are able, take one of your birds into a different room for say half an hour, and work at the step up and bonding. Shower them with love, praise and treats and your one on one time will hopefully be enjoyable for your bird. I've only done this with the boys a few times and Reggie was fine but Buster was quite keen to find Reggie again, so keep working at it and prove to them that you are worthy of their time too.

Once you have nailed the step up, its onwards and upwards! You have a reasonably obedient bird who has enough confidence to trust your hand and so now you can start to have fun with your bird. It is lovely to watch them in their cage and listen to them chirping, but I find that its the interaction between Reggie Buster and I that is the real fun. You now need to think about letting your bird out for his first flight!  

Biting? 
A bird that bites is not a happy bird. It it warning you to back off, and if you get bitten I would confidently say it was probably your fault. I've been bitten loads! I know when I'm going to get bitten but sometimes I have to suffer because I need to move one of them. 
Whats beaking? Beaking is when a bird will use it's beak because it doesn't have a hand to touch anything with. He might want to test that your finger is a suitable perch to step on to and so he may gently touch your finger. Beaking doesn't hurt, a bite does. You will learn to know the difference. Budgies are hoppy and so I don't get beaked much, mainly it is Buster who does this but Reggie will hop on and off very quickly if he isn't happy. 

Be careful touching a budgie
Budgies generally do not enjoy being touched, they are not cuddly animals, they are not a hamster. Please be careful with how much you try to cuddle your budgie especially in the early days, you really don't want them to get annoyed with your hands. I am not saying budgies don't enjoy human contact, many do and love it and will allow their owner to preen them or stroke them, I am very jealous of this! My boys do not enjoy that. Reggie is beyond comfortable with my hand but as soon as I go to touch him he is off! Nope Nope Nope, no scratches for me! The other two are the same but that's OK, that is their personalities and what they don't give me with cuddles they give me with buckets of laughter. 


When people ask me on Instragram about how to tame a bird I always send them to YouTube to watch ''Best Bird Taming Video EVER Part 1'' It's a really great visual demonstration using a bird in real time, not a retrospective video about bird taming. I can highly recommended that you go and take a look! 


I feel like I need to write this at the end of each post......I am not an expert! This is all information I have learnt and it might not always work out accurately for your birds. I have confidence in what I write but read with caution!

5. Budgie bonding and taming - The first few days


It is incredibly tempting to stick your hand straight in the cage when you get your new friend home. I'm not going to say don't do this, each bird is different and some might be OK with being approached immediately, BUT do at least give them a couple of hours to settle in. Watch how they behave and judge what you want to do next, is he reacting to sudden movements? If you walk past is he backing away into the corner? It can be very stressful for birds to be taken away from where they grew up and put into a strange cage in a strange room with strange people ogling them through the bars. Everything is new to them, and if they are a bird who has not been handled before, you could end up spooking them causing an injury.

Reggie's first day at home


When Reggie arrived home I knew that I should let him settle in and give him a few days to observe his new home. I was excited and impatient so after 10 minutes of standing and looking at him I put my hand in the cage and got him on my finger. I do blame the neighbours though for egging me on a little! I had read everything online that I could find about what to do when you get your bird home......and I completely ignored it! Luckily for me Reggie responded well and he even ate some millet from my hand. I knew this was not the advised course of action but I also knew that Reggie was already hand tame so I just jumped right in.
Enjoying some millet after a few days



Guilt got the better of me and I left him alone to settle in - this didn't mean I ignored him tho, I would sit by his cage and chat to him. I wish I could say that I left him alone for a few days and set a good example, but the photo on the left is day two! In my defense, my boyfriend and I were out of the flat from 9am - 6pm with Doug returning for an hour at lunch, so he did have a lot of time to sit and ponder his new situation. 
I hadn't seen him eat from his seed bowl so I put a seed stick into his cage and he tucked right into that! Don't be worried if in the first few days you have a very quiet bird who shows no sign of life other than the odd scratch. Continue to change their water and seed daily and do this at a set time. He might end up flapping about but you need to do this for him to live so really the bird just has to get over it. Move slowly but with purpose and talk to him whilst you do it. 
Remember, they are scared and have no idea what is going on, especially when they are on their own! Reggie was very quiet his first week, he would make very little noise and would just sit and stare out - I was sure he was so depressed with his new life. Baby budgies in the wild are told to sit still and shut up to avoid being noticed so I knew this was normal behaviour and he was just doing what his mum would have told him to do out in the bush. 




I did finally catch him eating from his bowl after a few days, he was probably eating when I was at work but it was such a relief to see that he knew where his food was.  

I didn't let Reggie out of his cage for the first 5 days. He stayed inside and I did all my taming inside his cage through a little door. I got pressure bruises from sitting quietly and patiently with my hand just inside his cage for ages! I also bought him some new toys and I got him a ladder and a real wood perch and whilst I installed them he remained calm and curious.








With Buster I could tell straight away that he was a different character to Reggie. He was more active, he played with his toys, he found his food and seed bowl very quickly. This was a little surprising really as he was just short of being 6 weeks old, so very young for a budgie to go to a new home. Because of how differently he was acting I was confident that I could work with Buster quicker than I did with Reggie and so I got him on my hand straight away and he ate some seed quite happily. 









From day 1 he would step up on to my hand and then poof himself up and fall asleep. He just seemed to have so much more confidence. So much confidence he shot past my hand and got out of his cage, flew around for a while and then landed down the side of a cupboard requiring emergency rescuing. Whoops! 




I got a little worried when he first moved in as his poo's were quite gloopy and I found some hanging off his ladder like slime. I thought this was stress and my breeder confirmed that if everything else seemed OK this was very likely just a stress reaction to the move. His poo's went back to normal very quickly. Dodgy poo's are a sign of illness but in the early days don't be surprised if you see slightly runny ones. Do keep an eye on your budgie as stress can cause hiding illnesses to present themselves, but keep in mind that this is normal and not necessarily something to worry about.




After a week Buster became a bit scared to leave his cage but I think he was content inside his cage as he was playing with his toys and grooming himself. I don't think he liked our spare room (he was in quarantine) so I had to try to lure him out but he always went straight back in. To be honest, Buster had a pretty miserable first few weeks with us as he was alone in the spare room and so he never socialized in the main part of the house. He could also hear Reggie and they would often shout to each other which was sad to here - but quarantine was important so we had to continue with this arrangement. I am happy to say that after his 30 day quarantine period he got his confidence back and leaving his cage was no longer an issue. 




I feel like I need to write this at the end of each post......I am not an expert, this is post is just documenting what I did and what I have learnt from budgie people! So as you please but make your choices with an informed head and it should all work out well.











4. Getting a budgie!

Make sure you are serious about the long term commitment!

Budgies generally live between 5  - 10 years in captivity with some amazing birds living close to 20 years! It is very easy to see birds online that do wonderful things and spontaneously decide that you want to own one yourself. I have to admit, I am a little guilty of this!! Everyone who knows about budgies probably knows about Disco the budgie and his incredible talking, who wouldn't want that? (It's actually quite annoying!)

Once you have decided you genuinely want a budgie and you can provide the time and the finances to care for it/them, you need to find the right bird. 

There are various places you can get a pet bird, rescue centers, breeders, pet shops or maybe even the old couple down the street that don't have time for their little friends any more. I know that sometimes your choices are limited to just a pet shop but wherever you get your new friend from, you can look out for signs that the bird you chose is healthy and happy. 

Choosing a healthy bird

When you go to look for your bird there are some things you should keep an eye out for:
(this is not a full list, but just few pointers)
  • Is the cage clean with clean water and a good seed supply?
  • Are the birds active and chirping?
  • Do the birds look healthy? Clean feet and beak, clear vents etc?
  • Does the bird have smooth clean feathers? (moulting birds can obviously look a little dishevelled but use your initiative)
  • Listen to the bird, it is wheezing?
  • Does he have all his toes?

Where I got my boys


Reggie and Buster came from the same breeder I found on www.preloved.com. When I started looking for my first bird I knew I wanted to get one from a breeder. Birds from breeders are often sold after being hand reared or hand tamed, and I wanted to make the taming process as easy as possible for myself. I also think that usually there is a higher level of care given to the birds. Many pet shops receive birds in large batches with little knowledge about the conditions the birds have come from or the birds they have been bred from. It is no wonder that buying pet birds from pet shops all over the world has a bad reputation and breeders are usually always advised. Not all breeders are perfect, and not all pet shops are bad - the pet shops have to get their birds from somewhere!
The advert for Reggie stated that he was parent reared and handled daily from a young age. The breeder wrote that he keeps very extensive records from the day the eggs are laid until the day they are sold and that he photographs the babies the day they are born and then every 7 days up to the age of 6 weeks old. For both of my boys I have a cute little fact sheet with their parent’s pictures and the promised weekly photos. Along with what sounded like a great advert from a caring breeder, was the sweetest looking blue and yellow bird perched on the breeders hand with a big smile across his beak. I had to have him even though I was convinced I wanted a yellow and green budgie.
I collected Reggie from the breeder and drove home with him on my front seat, sliding around inside the shoe box (poor little thing!). He was making a few chirps whilst I was telling him about his new Mum and Dad, the neighbours, where we lived (this was the first sign I was becoming a mad bird lady). Despite all the research, when faced with reality I was quite nervous! Luckily my neighbours who have a budgie came to my flat and helped me with the final cage preparations and also helped me get Reggie into his cage.

Reggie in his cage. Please note this was once I had started let him out for flying, as soon as I first got him in the cage I shut the door!

When the time came to get a second budgie [Getting a second budgie] I asked my breeder when he would have some more babies. It was near to Christmas so as much as I was hoping he had some available soon, ideally I wanted soon to be in January. Nope, he had some available the next week. He sent me the photo on the right of Buster and I knew I wanted him. He was a mix of yellow, blue and white, not a rainbow but near enough! I went to get him on the 5th December 2015, this time with a travel cage and a cover. Buster was TINY!! I thought Reggie was a little thing but Buster was so small. 


Buster in his temporary Hamster cage - again, don't leave the door open when you first get them!

I didn’t ask to handle either bird at the breeders. With Reggie I was new to birds so I didn’t really feel confident to ask, and for Buster I just trusted my breeder. I have friends who have chosen their budgie because when they handled them the bird was calm and there was a little spark of a connection. I watched as he checked Buster over one last time, popped him into the travel cage and off we went home. This time I was not scared to grab Buster to get him into his new home, and I felt a lot more confident about the process.
Before getting either bird, I had seen lots of budgies in pet shops, however none of the birds I saw were right. I was a bit picky with the colours (I had an idea of what I wanted), but that's not what put me off. They just all looked a bit off, closely bonded to their cage mates, and usually too old for me. We came very close to getting one spontaneously but I am now so pleased that I didn’t. I know lots of people who have bought a bird from a pet shop and they have turned out to be great little pets so I am not totally advising against it, but it is not the choice I would make when I have other options. I had a work trip to America and I went to a pet shop and the budgies in their were amazing!! All really active and beautiful colours, I could have easily fallen in love with lots of them, but I know birds are cheeky so they could have been hiding all manor of problems that generic staff might not have the time to notice.  

Too frequently pet shop workers sell a male as a female and a female as a male, incorrectly clip the wings, or they cannot give you simple advice like cage sizes etc. This is why you need to do your own research. At the beginning I asked my breeder quite a few questions and he offered plenty of advice and reassurance about both birds, he was approachable and obviously cared for the birds enough to take time to give follow up advice. Breeding birds for him was a passion rather than a living and for me that was reassurance that he was selling me a quality bird. 

I feel like I need to write this at the end of each post......I am not an expert, nor am I belittling anyone's choices! Just make your choices with an informed head and it should all work out well. 

Wednesday, 2 March 2016

3. Boy or Girl?

Don't over complicate Budgie sexing! 


Once you know the general rule for recognising boys and girls it's really quite simple - not necessarily easy as some birds decide to mess with us, but if you make sure you are looking for the right colours it's not too difficult.

Because it is quite simple, I found it incredibly annoying to be questioned numerous times about Buster on my Instagram page - you might even have read this because I sent you here! I was constantly having to defend that Buster was a boy all because he had a pink cere. People rudely told me I was wrong and that he was a girl, and they knew this because he had a pink nose. Wrong! Buster is a boy, was a boy and has always been a boy, and actually very little about their comments was correct. So, I have written this blog post to help explain why my little Buster is a boy and how I knew that he was even when he was nice and pink.

You can't place human gender stereotypes on to budgies - it does not work - at all! Pink does not mean definitely a girl, and blue does not mean definitely a boy. For young budgies, it is actually the other way around!


Very young budgies can be slightly trickier to sex as they tend to all have pink ceres which changes as they grow. Usually by 8 weeks you should be able to see the characteristics that tell you if your bird is a little boy or a little girl. Of course there are some little birds who want to be difficult, but you can still make a reasonably good guess by looking at the features of the cere.


Baby male = Pink/Purple cere

Adult male = Blue cere - usually a dark royal blue


Baby female = blueish/white cere with defined white rings around the nostrils
Adult female = whiter cere slowly turning brown as the female matures


Above is a fantastic table which shows the variations between the sexes, On the left is young female on top, young male on bottom. The boxes on the right are what you can expect to see from 6 months on. 


There are some exceptions to these rules and I will get to them soon. 



DO NOT CONFUSE THE BLUE OF A YOUNG FEMALE WITH THE BLUE OF A MALE!

''MY BABY BUDGIE IS A BOY, IT'S BLUE'' - ARGH!! NO. 

IF YOUR BABY BUDGIE HAS A LIGHT BLUE CERE IT IS UNLIKELY TO BE A YOUNG BOY AS BOYS GO BLUE WHEN THEY ARE OLDER. What colour is a baby boy? (Answer: Pink)
 CHECK FOR THE AGE OF THE BUDGIE AND FOR THE PRESENCE OF WHITE AROUND THE EDGE OF THE CERE AND AROUND THE NOSTRILS. 
YOUNG IMMATURE FEMALES ARE WHITE/BLUE, YOUNG IMMATURE BOYS ARE PINK/PURPLE 
(except the few that have to be difficult)



IF THERE ARE BARS ON THE HEAD AND THE CERE IS BLUE, EXPECT IT TO BE A GIRL. 

BABY BOYS ARE PINK! 

Another thing to remember is that 

ALL FEMALES GO BROWN! 
So even if you insist that your female is a boy you will eventually get confirmation.


I made the chart above to show the differences using real life budgies. The top two rows are all males, ranging from pink through to royal blue. The bottom two rows are all females - notice how they are blue? 

BUT, of course things can never be simple! There always has to be exceptions to any rule, and I currently own one. Little Buster. There are certain mutations (pieds & Lutinos for example) that will never go fully adult blue and they remain pink or pink & blue mottled all their life. Buster is a pied budgie and his cere remained pink long after the age when Reggie's went blue. It has now settled to be dark pink and dark blue combined, but mainly dark blue. Those hints of pink do not make him a female. Pink is not a female colour. Have I said it enough yet? 





Females can be a bit trickier when they are young as they may still have some of the baby pink around the edge, so you need to do some investigation. Are the nostrils white? Is there a blue hint to the cere? Is it generally uneven in colour? I've learnt over time that if in doubt, its probably a female. This little lady on the right is called Eva and lives with budgie_gang - you can see the pink tint but the nostrils are very obviously white and female. 


Where most confusion occurs tho, is not with boys being pink, its with females being blue. Again, this is when you have to look for the other features, texture and white nostrils, to determine whether the bird is a young immature female or a mature male. There is a distinct difference between the male blue and the female blue, but learning to look for the white nostrils will ensure you always get it right. 






These two lovely budgies are Bella and Bert. There are 3 months of age between them and they are a perfect example of boys and girls both being blue and looking very similar. Bella (on the left) you can see has a lighter blue cere, with white around the nostrils and a white border. Bert you can see has an even dark blue covering to the whole of the cere and not a hint of white.



If you look closely at this photo of Bella and Bert you can see where Bella's cere has started to go brown and the blue colour is starting to fade. Her cere is also starting to get more textured compared to Berts whose cere remains lovely and even. What a cute couple they are!! Since writing this Bella has gone from blue to brown several times with the seasons. 











Lets look at some more examples of boys and girls. 


The Boys




Reggie has demonstrated the perfect boy cere colour change. The photo on the left is when he was 8 weeks old, the middle photo was a few weeks later where you can see it is turning purple. On the right is 8 month old Reggie where he has a lovely royal blue cere. It has a uniform colour through each stage with no hint of white. You might notice the Raggie has slightly lighter nostrils, they are not white. When males are out of season their nostrils can sometimes be a lighter blue. 












 This is Ernie, he lives with the budgie_gang and is from the first clutch of babies one of my example females had. Yes it is a very light pink, but do not confuse this with the light blue/white colours that females have. He has a lovely pink cere that has an even colouration and no white on it at all.
















This is Jaydyn who lives with Artistic_arista. Look at that beautiful cere! Jaydyn is a lovely boy who has a blue and pink cere (I would love Buster to look like that!) He is not having an identity crisis, it's more a case of him trying to hang on to his youth as he is showing the baby pink and the adult blue colour - there is no white nostrils and if he were a female he would have a brown cere by this age. Remember pink = male!









These two handsome boys are Paulie (on the left) and Puffy, who live with their Conure brother Chico (Puffy_and_chico). Puffy was hatched May 2014 and Paulie was hatched February 2015. By now you would expected Puffy's cere to be a deep blue like his younger brothers but because he is a pied mutation, like my Buster, his cere has remained a lovely even pink. Paulie, like Reggie is classed as a 'normal' budgie and they follow the sexing rules you would expect. If Puffy were a girl you would definitely expect his cere to be brown by now. His cere will remain pink and will never go adult male blue. This does not make him a female as remember pink = male!





Look at the changes we have seen with Buster's cere, it has gone from a very light pink to a darker pink, to a purple/blue mess haha. I always knew he was a boy, and it's a relief that now all the people who doubted it can see he is (and hopefully learn something). I'm not sure why I care, but it was frustrating to be asked all the time 'Isn't the white one a girl?' even now when I post old photos and videos people ask me.

Ok, lets look at some ladies!




The beautiful little lady is called Do and she lives with 3 other birds as a flock 4budgieslife You can see the blue tint to the cere with the white nostrils. There is not single hint of pink/purple to indicate a male. We can tell Do is still a young budgie because she is clearly going through the moult on her head losing her baby lines, and her cheek blobs are all half moons further indicating that the blue is baby female blue and not adult male blue. 




This little lady is Rio, she is the sister of Do above. In this photo she is about 8 months old and she is still showing the baby female blue as she has not matured yet. Budgies mature at different speeds and by now you might start to expect to see the females adult colours come in (brown) Rio could confuse you as her age and appearance makes you think she is old enough to be a mature Male - but she is definitely a female because she has the white rings around her nostrils and the blue is very faint and not strong and even. There is also a slight hint of the brown coming in.







Here are Do and Rio together, they are similar ages but you can see that Do's cere is a very light beige color whereas Rio has a prominent blue cere still. Both will eventually go brown but both are showing the variations of the females.









On the right is a picture of a sweet little female budgie called Little G (
Parakeet_G). This photo shows the difference between 3 months old and 8 months old. Again, in the 3 month photo you can see the blue tint and the large white nostrils. As females mature their ceres begin to go brown and they also get rougher in texture. You can also see how she has lost lots of her head stripes and her dots have turned into lovely big blobs. When you compare Litte G to Rio of the same age there is a striking difference in their maturity.











This is Skyler and her boyfriend Barney. They are the parents of Ernie mentioned in the boys section above and they live in a flock of 8 birds as part of the budgie_gang hanging out in their owners bedroom (I don't know how she does it with 8 plus babies!!) Next to Barney you can see the very obvious adult female brown. Skyler is currently raising her second clutch with her boyfriend Barney!






Other ways to HELP possibly determine the sex of budgies:


Using the colour of the cere is always the recommended method for sexing a budgie. There are however, a few other differences between the sexes that you may notice, but remember these are less reliable than cere colour and not perfect rules.

Eggs: Only females lay eggs. (I hope you knew that already)


Body size: In general males tend to have a larger body and head than females.


Feet colour: In mature males (12 months and older) you might notice that the feet and legs have a blue tint to them. In females they tend to be pink/brown.


Chirping and Talking: Male budgies tend to be more active and vocal than female budgies. They usually have louder chirps that sound more like a song and females sound more abrupt and angry with their chirps. Or so I've been told - I have not owned a female budgie so I cannot say I have witnessed this.


It is not impossible for a female budgie to talk, and there are many out there that can speak. However this is a trait that is usually associated with males.


Lastly, don't be fooled by mating behaviours: Budgies are odd and they will play the dating game with anyone even if they are the same sex. Grooming and regurgitation is a sign of affection and is very common between all members of the flock regardless of sex. Have you ever seen your budgie spit up some seeds for its favorite toy? Also, females can mount males and show them how to do it ;)

I hope this post has helped you to sex your budgie, or it might have made you reconsider the name of the bird you currently own. I am not an expert (what makes someone an expert?), but I am happy to offer an opinion if you need one. Pop me a message on Instagram and I will do my best to help you sex your budgie. Only budgies though, I have no idea about other birds!! :D